African fat-tailed gecko

Origin and Natural History

Hemitheconyx caudicinctus inhabits a broad belt of West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon. Its habitat includes dry and humid savannas, open woodlands, and transitional zones. There it spends the day in burrows, under rocks, in termite mounds, or beneath deadwood. The microclimate in these retreats is noticeably cooler and more humid than at the surface. Many keepers overlook this point and house fat-tailed geckos like leopard geckos, as if they were pure desert animals.

The animals become active at dusk and hunt insects and spiders on the ground at night. Like all eyelid geckos (Eublepharidae), they have movable eyelids and lack adhesive toe pads. This means they can't climb glass, but they do dig occasionally. Their native range has pronounced rainy and dry seasons. During the dry season, the animals live off the fat reserves stored in their tails.

Adults reach a total length of about 18–25 cm. Males are usually more robust, have a broader head, and show distinct preanal pores. They also have visible hemipenal bulges behind the vent. With good husbandry, a lifespan of 15–20 years is common.

Enclosure and Setup

Since this species is terrestrial, floor space matters more than height. For a single animal, 60×40×40 cm is acceptable. For a pair or a trio (one male, two females), the enclosure should be at least 80×40×40 cm. Larger enclosures make it easier to set up a proper temperature gradient. Suitable options are glass terrariums with front ventilation or wooden enclosures with adequate airflow. Ventilation should prevent stagnant moisture without letting all the humidity escape.

A diggable soil-sand mix, such as coco coir with some sand added, makes a good substrate. It should be mostly dry, with one corner kept slightly moist. Pure fine sand is unsuitable because it doesn't retain the necessary residual moisture. Calcium sand and other digestible loose substrates are equally unsuitable.

At least three hides are mandatory:

• Warm hide: above the heated area.
• Cool hide: on the opposite side.
• Humid hide: filled with damp moss or substrate, for example a box with an entrance hole or a partially buried cork tube.

The humid hide is more important for fat-tailed geckos than for leopard geckos. It aids shedding and serves as a retreat. Flat rock structures, cork bark, roots, and a few hardy live or artificial plants help break up the floor space. Rock structures must sit firmly on the enclosure floor so they can't be undermined by digging. A shallow water dish should be available at all times.

Climate: Temperature, Humidity, Lighting

Temperature: Daytime air temperatures should range from 26–30 °C. At the basking spot, the ground reaches 30–33 °C locally. Heat is best provided from above, for instance with a basking lamp that warms up stone slabs. A heat mat placed externally under part of the floor is also an option, but only with a thermostat. At night, temperatures can drop to 20–24 °C. This nighttime drop is desirable. The cool side should not exceed 26 °C during the day so the animals can escape the heat. Use a digital thermometer for air temperatures and an infrared thermometer for surface temperatures.

Humidity: Humidity should be 50–70%, and considerably higher inside the humid hide. This is achieved by lightly misting part of the enclosure in the evening and keeping the substrate moist in one corner. The enclosure must not stay wet, however. Stagnant moisture and mold lead to skin and respiratory problems.

Lighting: Provide 12–14 hours of light per day, less during the rest period. Lighting establishes a clear day-night cycle and supplies heat via the basking lamp. A low-output UVB source is recommended. However, it does not replace vitamin D3 supplementation through food. If you use a UVB lamp, make sure there are plenty of shaded areas, since these nocturnal animals are sensitive to light.

Feeding

Fat-tailed geckos eat live insects exclusively. Suitable feeders include house crickets, field crickets, silent crickets, roaches, and grasshoppers, in appropriate sizes for juveniles. A feeder insect should be no larger than the space between the gecko's eyes. Mealworms and superworms are suitable only as an occasional supplement, since they are high in fat and have an unfavorable calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. Waxworms should be offered only as a rare exception, for example after egg-laying.

Juveniles are fed daily or every other day, adults two to three times a week. Dust feeder insects with a calcium supplement, and about once a week with a multivitamin-mineral supplement containing D3. A small dish of pure calcium powder can also be left in the enclosure. Feeders should be well fed with vegetables and mineral feed beforehand (gut-loading).

The tail is the best indicator of health. A thick, plump tail indicates good reserves. A thin, shrunken tail is a warning sign and should be checked by a veterinarian. Overfeeding happens too: fat pads in the armpits indicate feeding too often or too much fatty food.

Acclimation and Growth

New animals should first be housed alone in a simply furnished quarantine enclosure. They stay there for several weeks, during which a fecal sample should ideally be tested. Eyelid geckos can carry Cryptosporidium and flagellates, which are dangerous to tankmates. During the first few days, leave the animal alone and don't handle it. Offer food only after two to three days. Refusing food during the first week is not unusual for this shy species.

Hatchlings measure about 7–9 cm and have striking banding. They reach adult size within one to two years. Sexual maturity usually occurs at around one year of age. Females should be bred only once they have reached sufficient weight, and no earlier than their second year. Juveniles shed every few weeks, adults less often. The animals usually eat their shed skin. Check for retained shed on the toes and tail tip, as it can otherwise constrict blood flow.

Keep handling to a minimum. Although they tolerate being handled, they are not cuddly pets. Never grab them by the tail: they drop it when threatened. The regrown tail is shorter, rounder, and differently colored.

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Keeping them like leopard geckos: Kept too dry and too hot, fat-tailed geckos develop shedding problems and become dehydrated.
• No humid hide: This is the most common cause of retained shed on the toes.
• Housing two males together: This leads to fights and even serious injuries.
• Heat mat without a thermostat: There is a risk of burns, since the animals lie on warm surfaces.
• Loose sand or calcium sand: If ingested while feeding, it can cause impaction.
• Lack of supplementation: Without calcium and D3, metabolic bone disease (MBD) is a risk, especially in juveniles and egg-laying females.
• Feeders too large or a one-sided diet: For example, mealworms only.
• No quarantine: Parasites get introduced into existing collections.
• Using the tail as a handle: The tail gets dropped and the fat reserve is lost.

What Makes This Species Unique

The fat-tailed gecko is one of the few African eyelid gecko species that is regularly bred in captivity. During the breeding season, females lay several clutches, usually of two eggs each. The eggs are incubated at around 28–31 °C. As in related eyelid geckos, incubation temperature determines the sex of the hatchlings. For egg-laying, the female needs a moist lay box, for example filled with vermiculite or coco coir.

Numerous captive-bred color morphs are now available in the hobby. For some lines, possible links between color genetics and health issues are being discussed. The origin of breeding stock should therefore be known.

Wild-caught animals from West Africa are often heavily parasitized and acclimate less well. Captive-bred animals are the better choice. Overall, the species is calmer and less inclined to be out in the open than the leopard gecko. In return, it is long-lived and remarkably easy to care for once humidity is managed properly.